Beautiful Landscapes, Idly Painted

Will It Lift?

It Is Known: phthalos are highly staining. Once you let them dry, they are on the paper forever. Right?

I certainly thought so. But then I decided to try using hot press paper, and to try using it properly, to paint a delicate, multi-layered botanical illustration. The first layer went on very nicely: the smoothness of the paper allowed me to be much more precise than usual. I let it dry for several hours before touching brush to paper again…

And my careful first layer reactivated at once! Even though it was made of basic PHTHALO BLUE GREEN SHADE.

This shocked me, and sent me down a rabbit-hole. Is hot press paper just lifty? Was it the paper brand (Baohong)? Was it the paint brand (Isaro)? Several tedious hours later, I have some answers!

My Experimental Conclusions

Since I dislike it when blog posts make me read through pages of blather, I am adopting the scientific paper approach of giving the readers my conclusions up front. So, here they are:

  • Yes, hot press paper is “lifty”. At least, the artist-grade 100% cotton version of it, from both Baohong and Arches. (So it is not Baohong! If anything, I think Arches hot press lifts more easily.)
  • Yes, Isaro is an exceptionally non-staining paint. Rosa is too, and maybe Maimeri.
  • M Graham is much, much more staining than anything else. Qor and Roman Szmal seem above average in staining, too.
  • But (apart from M Graham) the differences were much less dramatic than I had hoped, so people who use the brush with a lighter hand might not even notice the problem.

Now that I have killed off all the suspense, time to describe my experiment!

The Methodology

I decided to perform my tests using phthalo blue green shade, not just because that was the paint that surprised me, but also because it is a very common pigment and I have at least a sample of it in many brands. (Not all the brands, though: for three of the fifteen brands tested, I substituted PB16.)

I also decided to throw in a second paint, Ultramarine Blue, because it is (in my experience) less staining, but still described as staining by many sources. (Such as handprint.com.) I focused on staining paints because I was pretty sure that non-staining paints would lift with boring ease.

I then painted strips of both my chosen paints on four different pieces of paper.

In case anyone is wondering: this was nothing like the soothing experience of swatching, because I kept having to get up and unpack/repack paints (my working area is tiny). Also, I was hoping to be able to say “see how my strips got cleaner over time!” but… I can’t.
Anyway, Maimeri, Da Vinci, and Greenleaf (and Blueberry) are the PB16s. The Isaro Ultramarine is a mix with PV16.

I waited a day. And then. I pulled out my Rosemary and Co eradicator, and got to work!

The eradicator, which is an extra-short flat. Next to the normal flat I used to create the paint samples.

My basic lifting test consisted of swiping the strip with the (clean, and only slightly damp) eradicator, then dabbing the moist strip with a paper towel. I did four tests per swatch: a quick one swipe/one dab, followed by more intense sessions of ten swipes/one dab, ten swipes/one dab repeated twice, and ten swipes/one dab repeated four times. (Aka until exhaustion.)

Because my swatching/swiping/dabbing technique was not all that consistent, I was glad to have four sheets. It’s a bit like having multiple samples for my brand comparison! Not MANY samples, but still.

The Results

Baohong hot press. The paper that started it all.

Let us start with the easier pigment: Ultramarine Blue. With enough scrubbing, this lifted completely for many of the brands. I can see significant traces left behind only in Daniel Smith, Sennelier, Da Vinci, and M Graham. Isaro, Michael Harding, Blockx, Holbein, Schmincke… many of the others lift to clear white.

As for the phthalos — hmm. Seems they are staining after all: no paint came up fully! That said, I see some white in Rosa (I have seen reviews suggesting that it is a lifty brand!), Isaro (yes!) and Maimeri. M Graham and Qor are obviously more staining than the others, but Roman Szmal held on pretty well, too.

Arches hot press, which I bought specifically for this experiment. It’s no biggie, I will use it! Probably with Qor or M Graham or something.

Here, the Ultramarine lifted even better; completely cleanly, in several brands. The dirtiest are M Graham, Daniel Smith, and Da Vinci. Among the phthalos, M Graham remains the staining champion, with Qor and Roman Szmal a bit behind. Rosa, Isaro, and Maimeri remain the whitest. So there is some consistency!

Baohong cold press. This sheet suffered a tragic accident after I was finished: my watercup fell over and drenched one corner. I could not bring myself to repeat the experiment, however.

To my eye, lifting was harder on this paper than on the hot press: the lines near the top of the strips are darker here, showing that more swiping is needed to achieve the same degree of lift. The winners and losers remain the same, however: Daniel Smith, M Graham, Sennelier, and Da Vinci are the most staining, and Schmincke, Holbein, Maimeri, Blockx, Isaro and Michael Harding are the cleanest.

Arches cold press. The paper I feel most comfortable on.

No surprises here! The lifting takes more swipes than on either hot press. M Graham Ultramarine is the dirtiest, and the usual long list is the cleanest. M Graham also has the most tenacious phthalo, followed by Qor and Roman Szmal… and maybe Holbein or WN, which have actually been more-diirty-than-average across all the sheets.

The consistency across all these sheets is heartening! I think it is pretty clear that M Graham is the most staining brand all-round, while Isaro and Rosa and probably Maimeri are more on the lifty side. If you want a brand with a staining phthalo , then Qor and Roman Szmal are also good options, and Daniel Smith, Holbein, and WN look good too.

I am focusing on the phthalo here because it seems plausible that brands with a very staining phthalo might be emphasizing the staining property for other staining paints, so if one is looking for a brand that layers well… Meanwhile, the variance in the ultramarines might be more of a paint design choice? Of course this is just a hypothesis, and one I cannot prove without more extensive tests. But playing with the staining property as part of paint design is definitely a thing: many brands offer a non-staining phthalo blue as a hue for cerulean or manganese.

One thing that surprised me here was how middle-of-the-road Sennelier is! It is often described as a great layering paint, but it does not seem to hold onto the paper all that strongly. Perhaps that description is based more on their paint catalogue? They do not seem to offer many granulating/lifting paints. Or perhaps they design their paints so that the pigments that usually lift (looking at you, cobalts!) are a bit more tenacious? Again, more experiments are needed.

As usual, “science” raises more questions than it answers…

Comments

4 responses to “Will It Lift?”

  1. Sunny Avatar
    Sunny

    I’m not sure how to contact you, but under your “Posts Archive” posts, I can’t access them, nothing happens when I click on them.

    1. Logan Avatar

      You are right! Thanks for letting me know. It’s important to me to have a working archive so readers can access the enormous amount of stuff we’ve written. My WordPress template quietly broke, and I had to replace it with a new one, so things will look a little different now.

  2. Simona Avatar
    Simona

    What an interesting experiment, thanks so much for sharing, Hanna!
    And yes, I heard the same thing about Sennelier and was just wondering about it when you wrote about it LOL

  3. Hanna Avatar
    Hanna

    I should really do more experiments… In the future, I intend to test new paint brands and new papers more closely.
    And actually, I should probably test Maimeri right now. Since it’s under suspicion of being lifty.