It’s all very well for me to do Color Spotlights identifying my favorite version of each color, but it can be hard to collate and use information when you’re standing in the watercolor aisle at the art store. Every shop seems to carry different brands. I’ll find myself with a rare chance to stock up on, say, Holbein open stock on sale, unable to remember which colors I actually preferred from Holbein. So I’ve made a list of my favorites by brand; and I thought I’d share it with you! Revised October 27, 2024.
A few caveats:
- This list is subjective, my preferred colors per brand, which may or may not be yours. Click through individual colors to see the Color Spotlights comparing other brands and explaining my reasoning.
- I haven’t tried every color, so there could be missing options. See all the colors I’ve tried through the Color Slots page.
- I haven’t tried every brand. Some big ones are notably absent. Sometimes this is due to location, availability, cost, format (I prefer tubes to pans), or ingredients (I have tended to avoid honey-based paints because they don’t stay hard on my travel palette.)
- The brand lists are roughly in standard order, yellow to red to blue to green to neutrals, not in order of preference.
- Brand lists do not make up a complete or good palette; they contain every color I like from a brand and none of the ones I don’t, without filling in any gaps or streamlining overlap. For complete usable palettes by brand, see Single-Brand Watercolor Palette Ideas.
- There are more colors listed than you need. The fact that, say, Pyrrol Red (PR254) is listed under Holbein merely means that I think Holbein’s is the best Pyrrol Red I’ve tried, not that it’s necessarily a color you must have. There are a lot of palette-slot duplicates — colors that are so similar that you don’t need both. I’ve starred (⭐) colors that I use most frequently.
Favorite Colors By Brand
Da Vinci Artists’ Watercolor
Especially beautiful earth tones and granulating blues; good all-around basic brand for most colors. This is also my default brand for a lot of “good in any brand” colors. Da Vinci makes Cheap Joe’s American Journey and Opus Essential Watercolours, so you can swap those brands one-to-one.
Update January 2025: the links in this section are affiliate links to the Da Vinci website! If you buy something from the link I will be eligible for a 5% commission.
- ⭐ Arylide Yellow FGL (PY97) – bold middle yellow. [Color Spotlight PY97]
- ⭐ Quinacridone Red (PR209) – aka Quin Coral. Bright, smooth, easy to grade, a pleasure to use. DS Quin Coral’s color is similar but I find it more splotchy. [Color Spotlight PR209]
- Permanent Red (PR188) – a pretty transparent scarlet. [Color Spotlight PR188]
- Perylene Red (PR149) – not necessarily a must-have color but an interesting alternative to discontinued PR206. Not the same pigment as DS Perylene Red. [Color Spotlight PR149]
- ⭐ Red Rose Deep (PV19) – a really nice reddish rose. [Color Spotlight PV19 Rose]
- Opus Vivid Pink (PR122, fluo) – One of the less over-the-top vibrant Operas, but still with that bold fluorescent glow that makes it useful in florals. [Color Spotlight Opera]
- ⭐ Perylene Violet (PV29) – dark and strong. [Color Spotlight PV29]
- Ultramarine Violet (PV15) – One of the stronger versions of this usually weak color. [Color Spotlight PV15]
- ⭐ Ultramarine Blue (PB29) – nice middle of the road (neither french nor green shade), moderately granulating. [Color Spotlight PB29]
- ⭐ Cobalt Blue (PB28) – my favorite Cobalt Blue and tbh the only one I really like; strong, bold, moderate granulation. [Color Spotlight PB28]
- Manganese Blue Mixture (PB33, PB15) – the only one that contains genuine Manganese Blue. [Color Spotlight Manganese Blue Hue]
- ⭐ Cerulean Blue Genuine (PB36) – my favorite Cerulean and also the only one I really like; strong, cool-toned, moderate granulation. [Color Spotlight Cerulean]
- ⭐ Phthalo Green (PG7) – a middle-hue Phthalo Green, handy if you can’t choose between PG7 or PG36. [Color Spotlight PG7]
- Raw Sienna (PBr7) – earth yellow-orange; more orangey than some Raw Siennas, making it good for mixing grays with blue and painting desert scenes [Color Spotlight Raw Sienna]
- Burnt Sienna (PBr7) – my favorite traditional burnt sienna. [Color Spotlight Burnt Sienna]
- ⭐ Terra Cotta (PR102) – also called Light Red; in between an earth orange and red, this is an opaque granulating natural earth with a peachy dilute. [Color Spotlight PR102]
- Indian Red (PR101) – strong, high granulating, lovely softness. [Color Spotlight Indian Red]
Daniel Smith Extra Fine Watercolor
Note: These links are to my Color Spotlights for each color.
- ⭐ New Gamboge (PY97, PY110) – Vibrant orange-yellow, good for fall (I also like their PY65)
- ⭐ Pyrrol Scarlet (PR255) – bold lightfast red-orange, good for sunsets
- ⭐ Perylene Red (PR178) – my pick for a middle red, a bit more muted than PR254 but mixes better
- Quinacridone Red (PV19) – equivalent of DV Red Rose Deep.
- Quinacridone Magenta (PR202) – more muted than a PV19 rose, warmer than a PV19 violet; good for muted deep red-violet mixes
- Carbazole Violet (PV23) – a bit on the dull side for a PV23, I find this easier to use in shadows than most. If you want a bright PV23, I like WN Dioxazine Violet.
- ⭐ Indanthrone Blue (PB60) – more moody and purpley than most brands, one of my favorites and I only like it from DS
- ⭐ Phthalo Blue GS (PB15:3) and RS (PB15:1) are very strong in this brand.
- Phthalo Green BS (PG7) and YS (PG36) are very strong in this brand, and very distinct; the PG7 is quite blue-leaning and the PG36 quite yellow-leaning.
- Nickel Azo Yellow (PY150) – Transparent dispersive glowing yellow; I’ve had no smell problems in this brand
- Rich Green Gold (PY129) – a bit bolder and less brownish than most PY129s; similar to PY150
- ⭐ Green Gold – a mix of PY150 and PG7, you can make this yourself but I find it convenient. A higher chroma alternative to PY129.
- Quinacridone Gold (PY150, PO48) – one of the only ones still using PO48
- ⭐ Monte Amiata Natural Sienna (PBr7) – gorgeously granulating yellow ochre or raw sienna alternative
- ⭐ Transparent Red Oxide (PR101) – intense, granulating burnt sienna alternative. My favorite! Great mixer, makes lovely rust/tree bark texture. DS Burnt Sienna Deep is a good mixer too, but more orangey (less red) and not granulating.
- Quinacridone Burnt Orange (PO48) – pigment discontinued worldwide but DS is one of a few still offering it. Glowing earth orange, mix with PY150 for Quin Gold, lovely glazes; kinda weak.
- Quinacridone Burnt Scarlet (PR206) – pigment discontinued worldwide but DS (maybe) still offering it. Transparent deep red-brown, nice mixer, kinda weak.
Holbein
Holbein Artists’ Watercolor
Note: These links are to my Color Spotlights for each color.
- ⭐ Imidazolone Lemon (PY175) – a good lemon yellow
- Imidazolone Yellow (PY154) – a good middle yellow
- Isoindolinone Yellow Deep (PY110) – DS is brighter but there is something about this one I like
- Pyrrol Red (PR254) – boldest PR254 I know
- ⭐ Pyrrol Rubine (PR264) – just a pleasant version of this crimson
- Permanent Alizarin Crimson (PV19, PBr25) – a wide-ranging alternative for the classic fugitive crimson
- Quinacridone Red (PV19) – equivalent of DV Red Rose Deep
- ⭐ Quinacridone Magenta (PR122) – just a lovely bold example of this excellent lightfast true magenta. SH Purple Magenta is also good.
- Quinacridone Violet (PV19) – moody violet shade; Holbein is on the cool side compared to other brands, with a consistent hue from masstone to dilute
- Indigo (PBk6, PB15, PR122) – just an easy to use, very deep and pleasant navy blue color.
- ⭐ Payne’s Grey (PBk6, PB15, PR122) – I love the balanced, very neutral color. Choose WN if you want something bluer (WN Payne’s Gray is between HO Indigo and HO Payne’s Gray in blueness).
- ⭐ Yellow Ochre (PY42) – my favorite YO because it’s a bit warmer and less green-toned than most
- Imidazolone Brown (PBr25) – not an essential color, but an interesting nongranulating red-brown; you can use it to mix your own Permanent Alizarin Crimson with the Quin Red.
- Perylene Maroon (PR179) is nicest in this brand IMO, warm and friendly
- Titanium White (PW6) – more opaque than most (though gouache is even more so; I also prefer Holbein for gouache.)
MaimeriBlu Artists’ Watercolor
Note: These links are to my Color Spotlights for each color.
- Potter’s Pink (PR233) – My favorite, most rewettable version of this notoriously weak and hard color. Schmincke is also good.
- Mars Brown (PR101) – interesting, granulating, color-separating PR101 variant
- Sepia (PY164) – interesting, unusual, granulating dark brown
- Neutral Tint (PBk26) – A very transparent, ink black. Rembrandt Spinel Gray is also good.
Schmincke
Schmincke Horadam Aquarell
Note: These links are to my Color Spotlights for each color.
- ⭐ Aureolin Modern (PY151) – my favorite Azo Yellow and my current yellow of choice! I usually find Schmincke too splotchy as a brand but in this case, I found SH superior to DS.
- Transparent Orange (PO71) – brighter and less red than most Transparent Pyrrol Orange
- Ultramarine Finest (PB29) – low-granulation Ultramarine Blue
- ⭐ Cobalt Turquoise (PG50) – brighter than most Cobalt Teal, my favorite version of this very useful and fun color!
- Mahogany Brown (PBr33) – unusual pigment, granulating brown
- Transparent Brown (PBr41) – brand-exclusive color, transparent warm/reddish brown
Winsor & Newton
Winsor & Newton Professional Watercolor
Note: These links are to my Color Spotlights for each color.
- Winsor Orange (PO62) – not an essential color for me but a fun color. DV Benzimida Orange is very similar.
- Winsor Orange Red Shade (PO73) – also not an essential color for me but lightfast and an interesting alternative to scarlet. DV Orange is very similar.
- Smalt/Dumont’s Blue (PV15) – unusual bluish Ultramarine Violet
- ⭐ Phthalo Turquoise (PB16) – a bit darker/deeper-ranged than most PB16
- ⭐ Prussian Blue (PB27) – muted, dark cyan; I find this pigment tends toward being too gooey, so it’s a good match for WN which in general tends toward being hard.
- ⭐ Naples Yellow Deep (PBr24) – a favorite yellow ochre alternative that’s a bit brighter and great for sunsets
- ⭐ Gold Ochre (PY43) – yellow ochre version with deep orangey color
- Magnesium Brown (PY119) – wildly granulating orange-brown, similar to PBr11
- ⭐ Venetian Red (PR101) – bold, orange-toned earth red. I especially like the peachy dilute.
- Payne’s Gray (PB15, PBk6, PV19) – more bluey than most versions
- Perylene Green (PBk31) – fairly strong version, but they are pretty similar across brands
- Oxide of Chromium (PG17) – actually I think these are pretty similar across brands
Cotman Watercolor (Student Grade)
If you want student grade watercolor (e.g. because it’s cheaper), this is a good brand and a good way to try various colors. They are all going to be less intense (more binder/filler, less pigment per ounce) than a professional artist grade, but that may just mean you have to use more paint. When working with student grade paint, I find painting from the tube more satisfying than using dry paint.
Here are my picks for favorite Cotman colors that I still have affection for after moving to artist grade.
Note: These links are to my Color Spotlights for each color, which typically don’t cover student grade versions.
- Lemon Yellow (PY175) – reasonably bold, a nice lightfast lemon hue. (Cadmium Yellow Pale Hue looks like a similar alternative which is a mix of PY175 and middle yellow PY97, making it more of a middle yellow, but I have not tried it. Note that no Cotman color actually contains cadmium.)
- Cadmium Yellow Hue (PY97, PY65) – a nicely balanced mid-to-warm yellow that is similar to SH Indian Yellow or DS New Gamboge.
- Gamboge Hue (PY150, PR209) – Mostly PY150, and like PY150, a great mixer of greens.
- Dioxazine Violet (PV23) – Such an intensely strong pigment that being student grade doesn’t noticeably change it much.
- Intense Phthalo Blue (PB15:3) – Phthalo/Winsor Blue is so strong that it’s just fine in student grade; if anything being a bit weaker makes it easier to handle. The color Cotman calls “Intense Blue” is nicely balanced between Phthalo Blue’s Green and Red Shade varieties.
- Turquoise, a Phthalo Blue mix containing a little Phthalo Green, is actually mostly blue and strongly resembles a typical Phthalo Blue Green Shade. A strong alternative to Intense Phthalo Blue.
- Cerulean Blue Hue (PB15): This is a pastel blue that I would not recommend as a primary cyan due to its lack of value range, but it’s a convenient specialist for sky blue.
- Prussian Blue (PB27) – Pleasant deep/muted hue. One of the stronger Cotman colors. Mixes a nice Indanthrone Blue hue when mixed with Dioxazine Violet.
- Viridian Hue (PG7) – this is Phthalo/Winsor Green Blue Shade, see note above on phthalo blue. More toward a middle green hue (less blue than some), similar hue to Da Vinci’s Phthalo Green.
- Light Red (PR101) – Very similar to pro grade Venetian Red; strong, granulating, nice mixer.
- Payne’s Gray (PBk7, PB29, PB15) – A strong dark, slightly blue-toned gray, useful for monochrome and shadows.

